Wooden Arch Basket Bag


Whether you’re lounging poolside or headed to the farmer’s market, a basket bag is the perfect compliment to a breezy summer outfit. Perhaps due to their functionality or their strong ties to romance, each year as the weather heats up, basket bags manage to make themselves indispensable to sun-soaked style. With this trend showing no signs of slowing down, it’s time to ditch the designer price tag with a DIY take on a cult classic.

Unlike other DIY basket bags, this one is very sturdy thanks to it’s wooden frame and arched structure. It measures 12” x 11.5” x 4”, making it an ideal carryall for all your warm weather essentials. The open weave of this basket bag keeps it light while adding a touch of texture. Its sandy hues are a refreshing take on summer’s go-to style. To DIY your way to some serious arm candy, watch the video below, or scroll down for the written instructions.


7/16" x 1 3/8" pine moulding - 24in total

1/4" x 1/4" pine dowel - need 18 @ 36in a piece

1/16" wire rope - 17ft total

1/8" copper tube - need 2

mitre box + saw (like this)

cutting pliers

wire crimps


tube cutter

9/64" drill bit (large)

5/64" drill bit (small)

power drill

wood glue


Step 1: Measure and cut a 5 1/4" dowel using a mitre box.

Step 2: Cut the remaining number of dowels sizes:

(a.) - 20 @ 5 1/4"

(b.) - 50 @ 4 1/2"

(c.) - 38 @ 4"

(d.) - 10 @ 3 1/2"

(e.) - 36 @ 3"

Step 3: Using the small drill bit, mark and drill an 1/8" center on each end of every dowel.

Step 4: Stack dowel (e.) on top of dowel (a.), marking and drilling where the hole falls. Continue using (e.) to mark and drill the remaining (a.) and (b.) dowels. 

Step 5: Match up the holes of dowel (b.) with dowel (a.), marking and drilling the position of the final hole.

Step 6: Stack dowel (a.) on top of (d.) and mark the second closest hole to the end on both sides of (d.). Mark only 2 (d.) dowels.

On one (d.) piece drill holes completely through - this will be (d1.).

On the other (d.) piece drill holes halfway through - this will be (d2.). 

Step 7: Measure and mark two 12" handles on the pine moulding. Use the mitre box to cut both handles to size.  

Step 8: Stack dowel (b.) on top of the handle and mark where the holes fall on both sides. Make sure (b.) is oriented so that the farthest spaced hole lines up with the edge.

Step 9: Using a piece of tape as a guide, drill 3/8" deep holes with the large drill bit.

Step 10: Measure and cut 1/4" piece of copper tube (f.) with a tube cutter. Repeat for a total of 88 (f.) pieces.

Step 11: Cut two of each wire length: 36", 30", 24", 10" 

Step 12: Assemble the first side of the bag, following the pattern:

(a.)    (c.)    (e.)    (c.)    (b.)    (c.)    (e.)    (c.)

Continue building with this pattern, stopping after the tenth (a.) dowel.

Step 13: Thread the remaining 3 wires through the holes.

Step 14: Slip dowel (d1.) onto the center wires. Then, add 2 (f.) pieces onto the innermost wires. Tighten and crimp (f.) in place.

Step 15: Trim the excess wire.

Step 16: Assemble the top half of the bag following the pattern:


Step 17: Tighten any gaps between the dowels, then crimp the topmost (f.) pieces. Trim excess wire.

Step 18: Apply an even coat of glue on the handle bottom, skipping the center portion. Then line up the (f.) pieces with the holes on the handle. Press down firmly to attach and allow to dry completely.

Step 19: Assemble the second side of the bag, mirroring the pattern from the first side. 



Marla Christiansen